Description
This range consists of several peaks, with Tirich Mir (Main) standing as the highest peak in the entire Hindukush range. The traditional route to this peak typically involves passing through Chitral – Reshun and Khosht. However, there exists a shorter route as well. Following a two-hour jeep drive on the Chitral-Mastuj road, one can opt for a more direct route from Perpish to Barum village, then proceeding through the glacier of the same name (Barum) to reach the peak. This shorter route is recommended for climbers who have already acclimatized themselves to high-altitude conditions, as there is a significant risk of altitude sickness otherwise.
The first successful ascent of Tirich Mir Main Peak occurred in 1950, achieved by a Norwegian expedition led by Arne Naess. Other members of the expedition included P. Kvern Berg and H. Berg. Arne Naess led another successful expedition to Tirich Mir East (7,692 meters) in 1964, with two members of the expedition, R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reaching the summit of Tirich Mir (E).
In 1974, Tirich Mir West II (7,500 meters) was climbed by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. The expedition also successfully climbed the previously ascended Dirgol Zom peak. Tirich Mir West I (7,487 meters) was conquered in 1967 by a Czechoslovak expedition led by Vladimir Smida. The team reached the summit via the north-west col, with members J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V. Smida, and I. Urbanovic reaching the top.
Route: Islamabad-Chitral-Dir Gol-Tirich Mir Base
What to Expect
Anticipate an exhilarating expedition filled with awe-inspiring landscapes, cultural immersion, and challenging climbs. The journey begins in Islamabad and takes you through the scenic beauty of Chitral before reaching the majestic Tirich Mir Base Camp nestled in the heart of the Hindu Kush range.
Prepare for an unforgettable adventure as you trek through rugged terrain and picturesque valleys, immersing yourself in the rich culture and history of the region along the way. The ascent to Tirich Mir, standing at an impressive altitude of 7708 meters, promises breathtaking views and a sense of achievement like no other.
With a base camp elevation of 4500 meters, be prepared for high-altitude conditions and ensure proper acclimatization throughout the journey. The 40-day duration allows ample time for exploration, acclimatization, and summit attempts, making it an ideal adventure for both seasoned climbers and enthusiasts alike.
From the rugged beauty of the Hindu Kush range to the warm hospitality of the local communities, this expedition offers a unique opportunity to experience the magic of the mountains and create memories that will last a lifetime.
Itinerary
Upon arrival in Islamabad, transfer to the hotel for a brief rest. In the afternoon, embark on a half-day city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi.
Travel to Peshawar, stopping en route to explore the Taxila archaeological site and museum. Afterwards, resume the drive to Peshawar.
Embark on a half-day city tour of Peshawar, followed by lunch. Afterwards, drive to Swat, stopping en route to visit Takht-e-Bhai. Continue the journey to Swat for an overnight stay.
Explore historical sites in Swat throughout the day, with accommodations for the night arranged at a hotel.
Travel to Chitral, with a journey lasting 6-7 hours. Upon arrival, check into the hotel and then proceed to explore Chitral city.
Embark on a full-day tour of Kailash Valley, with accommodations arranged at a hotel for overnight stay.
Return journey to Islamabad and transfer to a hotel for overnight accommodation.
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